How not to select a new bottle of gin:

1. Go into the store to pick up your preferred brand.
2. Allow yourself to be distracted by the adjacent, hitherto unseen, bottle on a nearby shelf.
3. Lean in to read the label.
4. "Gin...I like gin.  Maine...I love Maine!  How could this go wrong?"
5. Pay money; take chances.
6. Go home and discover the unique flavor of Regret+Tonic with a lime!

From the Cold River website:

Cold River Gin is produced using alcohol made from Maine potatoes and a secret blend of seven traditional botanicals: juniper berries, coriander, lemon peel, orange peel, orris root, angelica root and cardamom. The recipe is dates [sic] back to the early days of British gin.

They lost me at potatoes, and I never tasted the botanicals.  Among my fellow tasters, the most favorable adjective used to describe it was drinkable.